IRFP350 DATASHEET PDF
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Anyone here an Amp Mechanic? Only problem is it won’t turn on supposedly. I’m thinking this is a valid risk given the W RMS amp Could always retro the enclosure if it is in good shape Might be worth a try. The last three devices I had fail on me pre amp, RPTV, and a very expensive electronic piano were all victim of dead electrolytic power supply caps. There is good possibility that this is the same issue. Not having the sub in a controlled environment like in your own houseits hard to tell what might be wrong with it, though.
Funny you should respond tonight Eric!
I just got the sub. I pulled it apart and posted some pics. I wasn’t sure what to check next. I have a dmm, but that’s about it for diagnostics Yeah I checked the driver with my dmm and got a 7. Now i don’t know where to go from here It a class D amp – may need a load to operate.
Do you have a dummy load? You fatasheet also need to connect the accelerometer to get the amp to operate properly.
IRFP Datasheet PDF – Intersil
Since it has been discontinued, Velodyne may be willing to give you a service manual or schematic. That would be most helpful troubleshooting. Try to locate where the signal goes from DSP to the amp – Guessing that the amp is the top board with the cage, and DSP is the bottom board. Is there DC on this signal? If you disconnect the cable and connect the amp’s input to ground does it work? If the driver is good and you can’t find the amp’s fault, you may be able to replace it with a generic plate amp and a LOT of EQ.
It didn’t have a W amp for no reason. Do verify that the driver works as Buggers suggested – it may be toast even though the voice coil has continuity.
I spoke with Velodyne briefly. They won’t release the schematic as the subwoofer as a whole is discontinued but they are still utilizing the amp in other subs. I don’t believe there is an accelerometer in this sub, is there? I don’t have a dummy load but do have some drivers lying around I don’t care about. I could wire those up. I’ll give the driver a check and will try loading the amp.
Oh Michael, you read my mind. I’m going to try and get to that tonight. I did test the signal sensing feature and that works. So everything has been tested other than output from the amp. So time to start digging in OK – in one of your pictures it looked like there was another lead on the speaker.
Must have been an illusion. That makes it a bit easier – I’d replace the amp with as much power as possible. You’d lose the auto-EQ function, but unless you’re planning to move it around a lot, that shouldn’t be a big deal. I haven’t got a clue how to troubleshoot a class D amp past replacing obviously blown parts. Thanks for your help though!! Only one thing my novice eyes see.
Two of the solder joints look dark. Other than that I don’t “see” anything wrong and have no idea where to start with the dmm. Also, the aluminum cage can’t be removed without desoldering two chips that pass through the holes, which I don’t have the equipment for.
If you don’t see anything that looks smoked then your probably gonna have to replace the amp. That’s what I was thinking. I’ll play with the driver and see if I can implement it elsewhere. Might be a great sub for a truck application. The enclosure I already planned a retrofit for as well. Sub amps are cheap enough that I would just install a new one and be done with it. First of all, I have no idea of the topology of this amplifier, but I have worked with PWM amps in the past. Area in green box appears to be your LC output filter.
These are the large film caps and the small powdered iron inductor in between them. This would make the yellow boxed area your output transistors. They look like TO or maybe TO package devices.
If you can get multimeter probes to the component legs or where they solder to the board, you can check the body diode conduction voltage with a multimeter. I can walk you through that if you can get access to the leads. They may have 2 or 3 pins each. Light blue looks like electrically insulating heatsink pad for everything that mounts to that piece of metal.
If you can get some better pictures or even better yet part numbers off those things connected to the bottom piece of metal in this picture, it would really help. You can’t even get plate amps with that much juice and the watt guys are pretty expensive. He can just send it to Velodyne to get fixed cheaper than he could replace it with something comparable.
I guess you could just get an EP or EP and then some frequency control stuff. No matter what its not going to cost less than a few hundred unless he can fix that one cheap.
Mark, I really appreciate the help!! There are four of them attached to that metal plate, and they are all the same unit. Here is the best pic I can take at this time Other miscellaneous pics of stuff by that metal plate Alot of times when you see full DC voltage on the outputs you have shorted blown output transistors. I’m not much help at giving specifics on how to troubleshoot it but you might try posting over at DIYaudio.
There’s a LOT of good electronics whizzes there who can help. It looks like they use the same devices for the output devices while you can’t make out the PN on the output FETs per se, the other identifying marks are identical 8C and 41and they probably used the same parts for BOM consolidation.
The I diode R symbol is just the logo for International Rectifier.
We need to test them first. I would personally be fine with a an hour or two, but some folks would wait 24hrs. This is to allow for any caps to bleed off charge.
This is an easy test I usually do as a ‘first check’ to see if a FET datasheeet damaged. Using your multi-meter, put it into diode voltage test mode.
If you look at the schematic symbol on page one of http: Left to right, those pins on the power FETs are gate-drain-source. So you want to measure the forward conduction voltage of diode from source to drain pin 3 to pin 2. If it measures as.
But if those two pins are shorted together, or if it reads as total open circuit, the FET is definitely bad. These are dxtasheet big cylinder things with the leads coming out of the top in pic 2 of your most recent post. They could also be blown. Depending on the voltages involved they may or may not be schottky’s.
I vatasheet expect them to be if they were to offer any reasonable protection of the FETs, so again if you read anything other than. All of this should be done with the power off. Irfpp350 the FETs are bad, there may be other stuff that is bad, but we’ll at least be off to a good start.
I can’t tell what the two Irfpp350 package devices that are glued together are. They are in between the output filter and the output transistors. They might be diodes, transistors, or even voltage regulators. If you could get a picture of those a little closer it might daasheet. Of course, diagnosing over the internet and playing with it may just make the amp unwarrantable by Velodyne, so maybe we should leave it as is: I think Mark’s suggestions for checking the output devices are great!
My specific suggestions would be to look at 2 things: